The Big Five

Fantasy South Africa RV Safari #9

During our final days in South Africa, we spent time in the granddaddy of all the parks, Kruger. We even had the opportunity to ditch our campers for a few days and sleep in luxury at Buhala Lodge.

When we arrived at the lodge, we parked our campers on the lawn, where they would patiently wait for our return in three days. The lodge itself is stunning, with a veranda and pool overlooking the Crocodile River and the edge of Kruger National Park.

Buhala Veranda

Our room was spacious and tastefully decorated, and while the view was just a fence, the comfort of a real bed more than made up for it.

Our room

Our stay at the lodge included several guided safari drives into Kruger National Park, with the Malelane Gate just a short 15-minute drive away. Riding on the main road to the park in open safari vehicles was quite windy and a little chilly.

guided safari vehicle

The safaris took place at different times of day over two days: one at sunrise with a stop for breakfast, an afternoon drive, and a midday outing that included a boxed lunch. Breakfast was served at a picnic area beneath a thatched shelter, where sleeping fruit bats were tucked up in the rafters above us. On the midday safari, we enjoyed lunch on simple benches overlooking the water, watching a few hippos resting lazily in the shallows while we ate. 

Lunch spot

The guided safaris were well worth the wind and chill of riding in the open vehicles as we were lucky enough to spot some new animals—a pair of Spotted Hyena and later a magnificent Leopard.

During our time in Kruger, we were lucky enough to check off one of Africa’s most iconic wildlife milestones: spotting the Big Five. This legendary group includes the lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and African Cape buffalo. The term “Big Five” actually dates back to the late 1800s and early 1900s, when big-game hunters used it to describe the five most dangerous animals to hunt on foot. Today the meaning has shifted and is now a badge of honor for travelers and safari enthusiasts, representing unforgettable wildlife encounters rather than conquest.

 The hyenas were resting right beside the road, and up close it was surprising just how fluffy they looked.

spotted hyenas

The leopard sighting was even more thrilling. We watched as he quietly stalked a small group of Impala, moving low through the grass before settling in to wait for the perfect moment. Before he could pounce, the impalas spotted him. Instead of immediately running, they began sounding the alarm with sharp snorts that rippled through the herd. Realizing his cover had been blown, the leopard finally abandoned the hunt.

leopard

 When we weren’t out on safari, we made the most of the lodge’s comforts—sipping wine and cocktails on the veranda while keeping an eye on the wildlife along the Crocodile River. On our very first evening, a small group of African Elephants wandered in and gathered beneath a tree just feet from the veranda railing. Throughout our stay we often spotted elephants, African Buffalo, and Hippopotamus in the distance or along the riverbank.

elephants next to the veranda

The setting was incredibly peaceful and relaxing. Gourmet meals were served around large tables, and afternoon tea was enjoyed on the veranda. After days on the road in our camper, it felt like a wonderfully luxurious break. When our time at Buhala Lodge came to an end, it wasn’t the end of our Kruger National Park adventure. We climbed back into our campers and made our way to Skukuza Rest Camp, this time staying inside the park itself, enjoying self-drives to and from camp.

Along the way we spotted many of the same animals we had already seen—though it’s impossible to tire of watching these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. The drive to camp took longer than expected thanks to a couple of classic Kruger roadblocks. First, we encountered an African Elephant blockade, and later a troop of Baboon turned the road into an obstacle course. Out here there’s nothing to do but wait patiently and take it slow as the animals set the pace, and everyone else follows. 

elephant blockade

baboon obstacle course

Leaving camp, we took a few small loops past nearby watering holes and were rewarded with a lively scene of Hippopotamus playing and squabbling in the water —one last memorable wildlife moment before continuing our journey out of Kruger National Park.

After Kruger, we had another self-drive experience ahead of us in Pilanesberg Game Reserve. We encountered many of the same incredible animals again, and honestly, it never gets old. Every sighting feels just as exciting as the first. This time, though, we had a brand-new highlight: a cheetah. At first, we couldn’t quite figure out what he was up to. He kept sniffing a road marker before suddenly leaping up onto it.  As we watched him slip down into the grass, he startled a rabbit and quickly gave chase, successfully catching it. That’s when we realized we had just witnessed a hunt unfold right in front of us.

Cheetah looking for breakfast

Cheetahs often use elevated vantage points like termite mounds to scan for prey. In this case, the road marker served the same purpose—a clever and fascinating adaptation.

One other experience before our time in South Africa: ended: a walk with lions. As a group, we visited Colin’s Horseback Africa, where we had the chance to walk alongside lion cubs in small groups of about 15–16 people. The cubs were only 4–5 months old—absolutely adorable, but already full of energy. They bounded ahead of us, pouncing and chasing each other like oversized house cats, then darted back through the group without a care in the world. At one point, one of them ran straight between my legs—definitely a moment I won’t forget (and luckily, I stayed on my feet!).

playful cubs

In addition to the walk, we also got to pet tiny 2-week-old cubs and observe both younger and older lions up close. It was such a unique experience—very different from seeing them in the wild.

2-week old

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